Australia -- Melbourne
From our travels, it appears that Melbourne is somewhat overlooked as a destination if one is going to Australia … in part this may be due to the association of Sydney with the 2000 Olympics and in part it may be due to the reputation for unpredictable weather in Melbourne. Yes, the weather is somewhat unpredictable – but as the locals will tell you, if you do not currently like the weather in Melbourne, just wait 20 minutes … having spent six months living in Melbourne the weather is no worse than most other destinations so long as you dress accordingly. In Australia’s spring/summer (October – March roughly) the weather is usually nice. Sometimes it can get very hot but it usually does not last for more than one or two days. During the fall/winter, it will never snow but it can be rainy and damp (much like a Vancouver or north U.S. west coast winter). The weather, however, should not prevent you from visiting!
From our travels, it appears that Melbourne is somewhat overlooked as a destination if one is going to Australia … in part this may be due to the association of Sydney with the 2000 Olympics and in part it may be due to the reputation for unpredictable weather in Melbourne. Yes, the weather is somewhat unpredictable – but as the locals will tell you, if you do not currently like the weather in Melbourne, just wait 20 minutes … having spent six months living in Melbourne the weather is no worse than most other destinations so long as you dress accordingly. In Australia’s spring/summer (October – March roughly) the weather is usually nice. Sometimes it can get very hot but it usually does not last for more than one or two days. During the fall/winter, it will never snow but it can be rainy and damp (much like a Vancouver or north U.S. west coast winter). The weather, however, should not prevent you from visiting!
Neighborhoods
Make sure you take the time to explore different neighborhoods and take in the wonderful architecture. Melbourne has the feel of an European city in terms of architecture and ambience. Of the North American cities, we think it most resembles Montreal, but on a much larger scale. It is worth taking a tram to a given neighborhood and then walking around.
St. Kilda: Farthest a field is St. Kilda (not to be confused with St. Kilda Road, although you can use the tram along St. Kilda road to get to St. Kilda). St. Kilda is bohemian, is next to a beach, and has some very trendy restaurants. Outdoor cafes and local bars are in abundance. There is even a Coney Island like roller coaster (Luna Park). The key streets for cafes, shops, etc. are Fitzroy, Acland and the Esplanade. Along Acland there are some wonderful old bakeries that will definitely satisfy your sweet tooth. If you are visiting at the right time, the St. Kilda festival is a great experience. Also, there are often street vendors along the Esplanade on Sundays. A word to the wise that although we never felt threatened, you may see needles and other evidence of drug use.
South Melbourne: Closer to the city and just north of St. Kilda is the slightly more residential neighborhood of South Melbourne. There are some stunning houses along the bayside of South Melbourne (it melds in with the trendy neighborhood of Albert Park). Over by Dorcas Street, Clarendon Street, and Ferrars Street is the South Melbourne market and some great places for breakfast on a Saturday. The South Melbourne market is smaller, less touristy, and more low-key than the Queen Victoria.
Prahran, South Yarra: Prahran (sounds more like pa-ran) and South Yarra are south-east of the Yarra River. South Yarra is the place to go if you like designer clothes/things in high fashion. Prahran has lots of shops but is less haute couture. There are some good neighborhood restaurants and great pubs to be found in these neighborhoods. Also the Prahran market is the place to go if you like gourmet food (the market is open at the end of the week and on Saturdays – although opened on Sunday, only a few vendors actually operate on Sunday).
Central Melbourne: there are lots of buildings and shops to be seen in the central city. The best walk we know of is to pick up the free brochure on the “laneways” of Melbourne from the tourist office at Federation Square. This walk is best done during the week when all shops are opened – but it can be done on the weekend as well.
Richmond: the real reason to visit Richmond is for the discounted shops … there are tons and tons of stores along Bridge Road – many offer great deals.
Carlton: Carlton is a great place to explore around dinner time or in the late afternoon. It is the part of the city that is close to the University of Melbourne – so has a bit of a university feel. There is a nice mix of shops, cafes, and restaurants.
Fitzroy: Another great neighborhood to explore – especially for the pubs. Fitzroy has a similar feel as Prahran (discussed above).
Sights
Remember we are not trying to be a guidebook. So what we identify below are the places we have enjoyed visiting.
The Royal Botanic Gardens is a great place to explore – there is a nice collection of trees, plants and wildlife that is mostly indigenous. Inside the park are several places to stop for a cup of tea or lunch (or bring your picnic). In the summer time, there are plays and other events held throughout the gardens (and just outside the gardens in Kings Domain).
National Gallery of Art: There are two buildings. The one on St. Kilda road has a nice collection of European and more traditional art as well as art from other countries and special exhibitions. The building at Federation Square is devoted primarily to the display of aboriginal and native Australian art. We highly recommend the building at Federation Square – the other building is worth going to if you have the time.
Also at Federation Square is the Australian Centre for the Moving Image – it claims to be the first in the world to be devoted to all things moving. Lots of short films and other types of art (including photography) can be found here. An interesting museum worth checking out.
The Melbourne Aquarium is interesting for a look at local water life – it is not as dramatic as the Sydney Aquarium but is still quite interesting.
If you get a chance to go to a wildlife sanctuary (there are tons across Australia) you should. A next best alternative is the Melbourne Zoo – one of the oldest zoo in Australia (opened in 1862).
If you want to learn more about who was who in Melbourne and in Victoria, the State Library of Victoria (at Swanston and LaTrobe) is not to be missed. The building itself is quite beautiful. But if you explore the library further there is a nice exhibition of portraits and the history of folks depicted in the portraits. Another tidbit – for a reasonable price there are storage lockers that can be used during the day if you are exploring the area and do not want to be carrying a lot of stuff around.
For more history, visit the Parliament House and the Old Treasury Building along with the Treasury gardens and old hotels along Spring Street.
If you have never been in a Casino before – then visit the Crown Casino in Southbank – a huge complex full of betting and shops.
Of course there is the Queen Victoria Market – definitely the biggest of the three markets to which we have visited (South Melbourne and Prahran) – also the most touristy. There are two parts to the QVM – the main building where there are tons of food shops and the open air market that has lots of produce and stalls selling “stuff.” It is not a bad place to go if you are looking for souvenirs. It has a bit of a feel that is similar to Canal Street in NY City.
Local festivals – often on the weekend there is some sort of a festival. We enjoyed going to many of the festivals. To find out what is on, see www.visitvictoria.com.
Eating in Melbourne
While we will mention a few of our favorite places in Melbourne. For specifics on restaurants we recommend the following websites: http://www.miettas.com/cgi/srch.cgi here you can do a search based on type of cuisine, rating, and/or location. Also, if you go into a local bookstore, one of the local newspapers (the Age) has two books on its reviews of restaurants (one for regular restaurants, one for cheap eats). When taking into account food prices, remember that tax and tip are included in the price (if you get really good service you may want to leave a small amount, one or two dollars, on top of your food bill).
In general, there are restaurants and there are pubs. Pubs are the place to go if you are looking for (a) a family atmosphere, (b) good food, and (c) reasonable prices. Yes, pubs are not always just the place to go for a pint. And yes, pubs do serve traditional pub fare like “steak and kidney pie” and “bangers and mash” but they also have food that North Americans would expect to find in a regular restaurant. And while there is a pub part that allows for smoking, etc., most pubs have a restaurant part that is smoke-free and kid friendly. In the more popular pubs (especially in the neighborhoods), try to make a reservation if you can (not always needed but we have been shut out of a pub because it was full on a given night). On the restaurant side – Melbourne has the tradition of being a “foodie” town with lots of good chefs, etc. While we were there the local newspapers complained that this reputation was getting a bit tarnished. But still, there are lots of restaurants in the city, many with very good chefs. The other thing – pubs are often called “hotels” … long story about this …
Aussie Burger: This is a must experience dish – found best in the pubs. When the Aussies do a burger it is huge (think about ordering one for two people) and has things on it like: fried eggs and beet root – it is so hard to explain we just have to recommend you try one for yourself.
Wood-fired pizza is a big thing in Melbourne. So big that for the top rated pizza restaurant you need to call weeks in advance to get a reservation (Ladro in Fitzroy) or you have to show up very early to get an unreserved table. The pizzas are good, often they have unusual (but good) toppings – worth trying out when in Melbourne.
Our favorites: On the pub front we recommend the College Lawn Hotel (in Prahran on Greville a few blocks west of Chapel, near the Prahran train station), Richmond Club Hotel (on Swan Street). Something that is like a pub but is known more for its nice wine is the Argo (in Prahran on Argo Street north of Commercial Road and east of Punt Road). For wood-fired pizza we recommend Ecco (Toorak Road, East of Punt in South Yarra). For good no-nonsense Italian food (and you can bring your own wine) try Tamani Bistro (on Toorak Road west of Chapel). And for a nice meal that will not break the bank (that also serves wine that are only slightly marked up), go to Vin on High Street in Prahran. Vin is a small intimate restaurant so make sure you make a reservation. For a nice upscale thai food, go to Lemongrass (in Carlton on Lygon). A nice bistro (with good wine) try Jimmy Watson’s (in Carlton on Lygon). And for good, creative vegetarian fare (even meat eaters will like this place), try Shakahari (in Carlton on Faraday).
An unusual dining experience: believe it or not, there is a local reality T.V. show called “My Restaurant Rules.” Essentially the producers have contestants in all of the state capital cities in Australia compete to become the best restaurant in the group. It is worth going to www.seven.com.au to see if the show is running while you are there and then checking out the restaurant. Mind you, it is not likely to be an inexpensive experience.
Sporting Events
Melbourne is a great place to take in a game of Aussie Rules Football, Cricket, etc. There are two huge stadiums (MCG and Telstra Dome) and it is easy to find reasonably priced tickets. If you are in Melbourne in January, definitely try to catch some of the Australian Open. Although the prices for tickets in the main arena (Rod Laver) can be pricey, a all-day grounds pass that will let you watch matches being played in the Vodafone Arena and other courts is quite reasonable (about $20). If you go for rounds 1 through 4, you will get to see tons of great tennis being played. In March there is the Formula One racing event – this is the one sporting event where tickets can be pricey.
Getting around
As mentioned in our general “Australia” posting, you can save money by taking an airport bus to the city and then either catching a tram or continuing on to your hotel (if it is in the city) from the airport bus. The airport bus stops at Spencer Street Train station and then allows passengers to get into different vans depending on where they are going.
Alternatively, you can take a taxi or hire a private car to get you to/from the airport. A hired car is only slightly more than a taxi (about $5 to $10) and is usually a better experience. We have used David at (email: mcgcc@telstra.com).
When in the city we recommend relying on the trams and trains. You can purchase a variety of passes that include unlimited daily, weekly, and monthly passes. There is a store devoted to this on Swanston between Collins and Burke … or you can pick up passes at train stations (e.g. Flinders street station) and at local convenience stores. Otherwise you can purchase daily and two-hour passes on the trams (but you need coins to do this). Note, every time you get on a tram you must re-validate your pass – otherwise an inspector can give you a pretty hefty fine. And yes, there are inspectors.
Renting a car: although we do not recommend using a car for use in the city, you may want to rent a car if you are getting out of the city. We have gotten our best deals by using either www.lastminute.com.au or www.frogandtoad.com.au. NOTE you do not want to drink and drive in Australia. The law permits the police to set up a check point and test every single driver. We have seen this happen quite often. Most Australians do not drink and drive – they use a tram, taxi, etc. to get home.
Staying in Melbourne
Unfortunately hotel prices in Melbourne have been rising (probably because they are hosting the Commonwealth Games next year). There are lots of nice hotels and many so-so hotels. Realize that except for the top hotels, lodging in Australia often provides the essentials needed in a room but not much more. If you are looking for a good deal, we have found www.lastminute.com.au and www.frogandtoad.com.au as good sources for deals. But remember to do your homework on the hotels before you book. Try to find a review (e.g. from www.fodors.com or the user reviews at www.tripadvisor.com). As you can tell from the rest of this posting, there is a lot to be said about Melbourne’s neighborhoods. If you willing to rely on trams (streetcars) and other public transportation, staying outside of the core of the city can save you some money.
From our travels, it appears that Melbourne is somewhat overlooked as a destination if one is going to Australia … in part this may be due to the association of Sydney with the 2000 Olympics and in part it may be due to the reputation for unpredictable weather in Melbourne. Yes, the weather is somewhat unpredictable – but as the locals will tell you, if you do not currently like the weather in Melbourne, just wait 20 minutes … having spent six months living in Melbourne the weather is no worse than most other destinations so long as you dress accordingly. In Australia’s spring/summer (October – March roughly) the weather is usually nice. Sometimes it can get very hot but it usually does not last for more than one or two days. During the fall/winter, it will never snow but it can be rainy and damp (much like a Vancouver or north U.S. west coast winter). The weather, however, should not prevent you from visiting!
Neighborhoods
Make sure you take the time to explore different neighborhoods and take in the wonderful architecture. Melbourne has the feel of an European city in terms of architecture and ambience. Of the North American cities, we think it most resembles Montreal, but on a much larger scale. It is worth taking a tram to a given neighborhood and then walking around.
St. Kilda: Farthest a field is St. Kilda (not to be confused with St. Kilda Road, although you can use the tram along St. Kilda road to get to St. Kilda). St. Kilda is bohemian, is next to a beach, and has some very trendy restaurants. Outdoor cafes and local bars are in abundance. There is even a Coney Island like roller coaster (Luna Park). The key streets for cafes, shops, etc. are Fitzroy, Acland and the Esplanade. Along Acland there are some wonderful old bakeries that will definitely satisfy your sweet tooth. If you are visiting at the right time, the St. Kilda festival is a great experience. Also, there are often street vendors along the Esplanade on Sundays. A word to the wise that although we never felt threatened, you may see needles and other evidence of drug use.
South Melbourne: Closer to the city and just north of St. Kilda is the slightly more residential neighborhood of South Melbourne. There are some stunning houses along the bayside of South Melbourne (it melds in with the trendy neighborhood of Albert Park). Over by Dorcas Street, Clarendon Street, and Ferrars Street is the South Melbourne market and some great places for breakfast on a Saturday. The South Melbourne market is smaller, less touristy, and more low-key than the Queen Victoria.
Prahran, South Yarra: Prahran (sounds more like pa-ran) and South Yarra are south-east of the Yarra River. South Yarra is the place to go if you like designer clothes/things in high fashion. Prahran has lots of shops but is less haute couture. There are some good neighborhood restaurants and great pubs to be found in these neighborhoods. Also the Prahran market is the place to go if you like gourmet food (the market is open at the end of the week and on Saturdays – although opened on Sunday, only a few vendors actually operate on Sunday).
Central Melbourne: there are lots of buildings and shops to be seen in the central city. The best walk we know of is to pick up the free brochure on the “laneways” of Melbourne from the tourist office at Federation Square. This walk is best done during the week when all shops are opened – but it can be done on the weekend as well.
Richmond: the real reason to visit Richmond is for the discounted shops … there are tons and tons of stores along Bridge Road – many offer great deals.
Carlton: Carlton is a great place to explore around dinner time or in the late afternoon. It is the part of the city that is close to the University of Melbourne – so has a bit of a university feel. There is a nice mix of shops, cafes, and restaurants.
Fitzroy: Another great neighborhood to explore – especially for the pubs. Fitzroy has a similar feel as Prahran (discussed above).
Sights
Remember we are not trying to be a guidebook. So what we identify below are the places we have enjoyed visiting.
The Royal Botanic Gardens is a great place to explore – there is a nice collection of trees, plants and wildlife that is mostly indigenous. Inside the park are several places to stop for a cup of tea or lunch (or bring your picnic). In the summer time, there are plays and other events held throughout the gardens (and just outside the gardens in Kings Domain).
National Gallery of Art: There are two buildings. The one on St. Kilda road has a nice collection of European and more traditional art as well as art from other countries and special exhibitions. The building at Federation Square is devoted primarily to the display of aboriginal and native Australian art. We highly recommend the building at Federation Square – the other building is worth going to if you have the time.
Also at Federation Square is the Australian Centre for the Moving Image – it claims to be the first in the world to be devoted to all things moving. Lots of short films and other types of art (including photography) can be found here. An interesting museum worth checking out.
The Melbourne Aquarium is interesting for a look at local water life – it is not as dramatic as the Sydney Aquarium but is still quite interesting.
If you get a chance to go to a wildlife sanctuary (there are tons across Australia) you should. A next best alternative is the Melbourne Zoo – one of the oldest zoo in Australia (opened in 1862).
If you want to learn more about who was who in Melbourne and in Victoria, the State Library of Victoria (at Swanston and LaTrobe) is not to be missed. The building itself is quite beautiful. But if you explore the library further there is a nice exhibition of portraits and the history of folks depicted in the portraits. Another tidbit – for a reasonable price there are storage lockers that can be used during the day if you are exploring the area and do not want to be carrying a lot of stuff around.
For more history, visit the Parliament House and the Old Treasury Building along with the Treasury gardens and old hotels along Spring Street.
If you have never been in a Casino before – then visit the Crown Casino in Southbank – a huge complex full of betting and shops.
Of course there is the Queen Victoria Market – definitely the biggest of the three markets to which we have visited (South Melbourne and Prahran) – also the most touristy. There are two parts to the QVM – the main building where there are tons of food shops and the open air market that has lots of produce and stalls selling “stuff.” It is not a bad place to go if you are looking for souvenirs. It has a bit of a feel that is similar to Canal Street in NY City.
Local festivals – often on the weekend there is some sort of a festival. We enjoyed going to many of the festivals. To find out what is on, see www.visitvictoria.com.
Eating in Melbourne
While we will mention a few of our favorite places in Melbourne. For specifics on restaurants we recommend the following websites: http://www.miettas.com/cgi/srch.cgi here you can do a search based on type of cuisine, rating, and/or location. Also, if you go into a local bookstore, one of the local newspapers (the Age) has two books on its reviews of restaurants (one for regular restaurants, one for cheap eats). When taking into account food prices, remember that tax and tip are included in the price (if you get really good service you may want to leave a small amount, one or two dollars, on top of your food bill).
In general, there are restaurants and there are pubs. Pubs are the place to go if you are looking for (a) a family atmosphere, (b) good food, and (c) reasonable prices. Yes, pubs are not always just the place to go for a pint. And yes, pubs do serve traditional pub fare like “steak and kidney pie” and “bangers and mash” but they also have food that North Americans would expect to find in a regular restaurant. And while there is a pub part that allows for smoking, etc., most pubs have a restaurant part that is smoke-free and kid friendly. In the more popular pubs (especially in the neighborhoods), try to make a reservation if you can (not always needed but we have been shut out of a pub because it was full on a given night). On the restaurant side – Melbourne has the tradition of being a “foodie” town with lots of good chefs, etc. While we were there the local newspapers complained that this reputation was getting a bit tarnished. But still, there are lots of restaurants in the city, many with very good chefs. The other thing – pubs are often called “hotels” … long story about this …
Aussie Burger: This is a must experience dish – found best in the pubs. When the Aussies do a burger it is huge (think about ordering one for two people) and has things on it like: fried eggs and beet root – it is so hard to explain we just have to recommend you try one for yourself.
Wood-fired pizza is a big thing in Melbourne. So big that for the top rated pizza restaurant you need to call weeks in advance to get a reservation (Ladro in Fitzroy) or you have to show up very early to get an unreserved table. The pizzas are good, often they have unusual (but good) toppings – worth trying out when in Melbourne.
Our favorites: On the pub front we recommend the College Lawn Hotel (in Prahran on Greville a few blocks west of Chapel, near the Prahran train station), Richmond Club Hotel (on Swan Street). Something that is like a pub but is known more for its nice wine is the Argo (in Prahran on Argo Street north of Commercial Road and east of Punt Road). For wood-fired pizza we recommend Ecco (Toorak Road, East of Punt in South Yarra). For good no-nonsense Italian food (and you can bring your own wine) try Tamani Bistro (on Toorak Road west of Chapel). And for a nice meal that will not break the bank (that also serves wine that are only slightly marked up), go to Vin on High Street in Prahran. Vin is a small intimate restaurant so make sure you make a reservation. For a nice upscale thai food, go to Lemongrass (in Carlton on Lygon). A nice bistro (with good wine) try Jimmy Watson’s (in Carlton on Lygon). And for good, creative vegetarian fare (even meat eaters will like this place), try Shakahari (in Carlton on Faraday).
An unusual dining experience: believe it or not, there is a local reality T.V. show called “My Restaurant Rules.” Essentially the producers have contestants in all of the state capital cities in Australia compete to become the best restaurant in the group. It is worth going to www.seven.com.au to see if the show is running while you are there and then checking out the restaurant. Mind you, it is not likely to be an inexpensive experience.
Sporting Events
Melbourne is a great place to take in a game of Aussie Rules Football, Cricket, etc. There are two huge stadiums (MCG and Telstra Dome) and it is easy to find reasonably priced tickets. If you are in Melbourne in January, definitely try to catch some of the Australian Open. Although the prices for tickets in the main arena (Rod Laver) can be pricey, a all-day grounds pass that will let you watch matches being played in the Vodafone Arena and other courts is quite reasonable (about $20). If you go for rounds 1 through 4, you will get to see tons of great tennis being played. In March there is the Formula One racing event – this is the one sporting event where tickets can be pricey.
Getting around
As mentioned in our general “Australia” posting, you can save money by taking an airport bus to the city and then either catching a tram or continuing on to your hotel (if it is in the city) from the airport bus. The airport bus stops at Spencer Street Train station and then allows passengers to get into different vans depending on where they are going.
Alternatively, you can take a taxi or hire a private car to get you to/from the airport. A hired car is only slightly more than a taxi (about $5 to $10) and is usually a better experience. We have used David at (email: mcgcc@telstra.com).
When in the city we recommend relying on the trams and trains. You can purchase a variety of passes that include unlimited daily, weekly, and monthly passes. There is a store devoted to this on Swanston between Collins and Burke … or you can pick up passes at train stations (e.g. Flinders street station) and at local convenience stores. Otherwise you can purchase daily and two-hour passes on the trams (but you need coins to do this). Note, every time you get on a tram you must re-validate your pass – otherwise an inspector can give you a pretty hefty fine. And yes, there are inspectors.
Renting a car: although we do not recommend using a car for use in the city, you may want to rent a car if you are getting out of the city. We have gotten our best deals by using either www.lastminute.com.au or www.frogandtoad.com.au. NOTE you do not want to drink and drive in Australia. The law permits the police to set up a check point and test every single driver. We have seen this happen quite often. Most Australians do not drink and drive – they use a tram, taxi, etc. to get home.
Staying in Melbourne
Unfortunately hotel prices in Melbourne have been rising (probably because they are hosting the Commonwealth Games next year). There are lots of nice hotels and many so-so hotels. Realize that except for the top hotels, lodging in Australia often provides the essentials needed in a room but not much more. If you are looking for a good deal, we have found www.lastminute.com.au and www.frogandtoad.com.au as good sources for deals. But remember to do your homework on the hotels before you book. Try to find a review (e.g. from www.fodors.com or the user reviews at www.tripadvisor.com). As you can tell from the rest of this posting, there is a lot to be said about Melbourne’s neighborhoods. If you willing to rely on trams (streetcars) and other public transportation, staying outside of the core of the city can save you some money.
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